Category Archives: Dauta


Project Cars Force Feedback Jack Spade files

Tweaker Files Sets

Folder 1. Standard
Classic parameters Fx,Mz,Fy,Fz – but additional SopDiff. bumps/kerbs/road feel from the rear tires, solves phase issues.

Folder 2. Fy+SopLateral Mix
Side load mix (front/rear) 2/3 + 1/3 by forces not by numbers. FFB feels slightly different but gives more feel what the rear
of the car is doing, all other parameters as Standard.

Folder 3. 66% SopLateral
Featuring Side Load Forces derived from the Rear. The character of SopLateral leaves Mz more space to breathe, allows about
10% – 13% increased Master Scale and Sop Scale values than in other sets. Entering curves the wheel slightly feels lighter than
usual but compensates with more dynamic, you gain more feel when the tail wants to step out.
In the Fy+SopLateral Mix version Fy (side load front) is dominating, besides the Master Levels this is the main difference.

Folder 4. Bumps Plus
Based on the Fy+SopLateral Mix version, more Rock´n Roll from bumps and kerbs, clipping not ruled out.

Folder 5. Brake Rumble
Some people asked in the forum and in several PMs about this effect – in game Fx = longitudinal force. Fx is equally cranked
up on all cars, it´s a temporary force so it won´t spoil the core balance. Though cranked up there is just little effect on lots of
cars. As reference check the Radicals and the Caterham 500 on Oulton Park. This version is based on Fy+SopLateral Mix.

Folder 6. Bumps Plus – Classic
Similar to the folder 4 version but based on the Standard-Classic settings.

Note, in all versions the core settings or ratio of forces are conform the laws of physics (SMS interpreted, human error included)
so they correctly mirror the car´s situation on any type of FFB wheel. As the side load forces are derived from different sources
(front/rear) their special mix balance determine the character of FFB feel. At this point the different versions may become a matter
of taste rather than wrong or right.

Recommended Global FFB Settings
Tweaker files are optimized for best performance and maximum output level and should be used in combo with following settings as a
foundation and starting point for all type of wheels in order to avoid clipping.

Menu parameters not mentioned here remain default.

FFB = 100
Tire Force = 100 –> if necessary lower this to your liking, higher values may cause clipping.

Steering Gain = 1.00

Relative Adjust Gain = 1.10
Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.10
Relative Adjust Clamp = 0.95
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –


FFB compression suggestions for these type of wheels – G25/27, TM T300, Fanatec GT3 RS, DFGT etc.

As a supplement to above mentioned foundation settings it could be useful to help these kind of wheels gaining a bit more strength
by compressing FFB signals. Compression in general narrows the dynamic and high ratios tend to smooth out forces, here are 4 stages.
I recommend to try the moderate first.

From left to right (A – D) – heavy compression —-> moderate compression – based on FFB = 100, Tire Force = 100

Relative Adjust Gain—–(A) 1.30 – (B) 1.20 – (C) 1.15 – (D) 1.10
Relative Adjust Bleed——–0.10 —— 0.10 ——0.10 ——0.10
Relative Adjust Clamp ——1.15 —— 1.10 ——1.03 ——0.95

Soft Clip (Half Input)———0.50 —– 0.80 ——1.10 ——1.29
Soft Clip (Full Output)——–1.39 —– 1.29 ——1.20 ——1.10

Wheel too strong now? -> INCREASE Soft Clip (Full Output)…what? yes that´s right, BTW reduces clipping too.
System Structure:
(car/physics) -> (Tire Force) -> (car FFB department/tuning) -> (global FFB wheel presets, Steering Gain) -> (FFB monitor) -> (FFB master=100) -> output -> wheel

Additional Info:

People who don´t prefer Soft FFB Lock change the line in the files like this: <value DisableLockSpring=”true” />
(FFB lock for each car’s certain degrees of rotation)

A certain car maybe at bit weak/strong? Use these 2 Group Master Fader – SpindleMasterScale and SopScale….but always at the same level!
( use careful, high values cause clipping)

Previous wheel preset terms like, Relative Gain, Scoop, Tighten Center, Soft Clip, Base Drag – is old stuff and don´t work.
Now different terms on the wheel preset pages.

Dead Zone Removal settings for various wheels collected by Lars Rosenquist with the help of WMD members.

FFB at 100% – always any wheel!

Logitech G25: 0.01 – 0.06 (partly depending on new/worn condition)
Logitech G27: 0.16 – profiler strength 100%
Logitech Driving Force GT: 0.03 – 0.05 (values corrected due to forum advice)
Logitech Driving Force Pro: 0.00-0.01

Fanatec CSR: 0.00
Fanatec CSW v2: 0.00
Fanatec 911 GT3 RS v1: 0.06
Fanatec GT2: 0.11
Fanatec Turbo S: 0.09 – 0.1

Thrustmaster T300RS: 0.01

SimXperience AccuForce: 0.00

FAQ – info collected by forum member “TheIronWolf”

Q: What’s best tweaker file set?
A: There’s no best set. Just as FFB in general, those sets are very much up to personal preference. Try, experiment, adjust to find your “best” settings.

Q: Can those files be applied to PS4/XB1 version of the game?
A: No, you cannot copy those tweaker files to PS4/XB1. However, other users produced pdf/xls from those files (see OP). You can use those to enter settings manually. Note: you don’t have to enter them all, just pick a car or set of cars, and apply settings to it. See what You prefer.

Q: Tweaker files seem to have no effect.
A: You can verify tweaker files are working by:
1. find .xml for your car, for example, %USERPROFILE%\Documents\Project CARS\FFB\FFBTweakers_Mercedes_SLS_GT3.xml
2. Set SpindleMasterScale to 100.0, save the file.
3. Exit and reload session
you should now get very strong feeling. See:…l=1#post899737

Q: My wheel feels too weak.
A: You have several options for increasing the strength of FFB:
1. Experiment with Range Compression settings.
2. Increase Tire Force – this will increase all forces without breaking their relative ratios.
3. Increase FFB strength in wheel profiler (in Logitech, uncheck allow game to change settings box).
4. Increase SpindleMasterScale/SoPScale but keep them at the same level.

Note: tweaker files are specifically crafted to avoid clipping (sending values above wheel abilities to output). Clipping leads to fidelity loss. You can observe clipping in clipping meter of Telemetry HUD (flat line overflows).

Q: My wheel feels too strong.
A: See “My wheel feels too weak” and do the opposite steps. Note: do not reduce FFB level in game. FFB in game should be always set to 100.

Q: My wheel is loose around center.
A: Consider increasing Dead Zone Removal Range value.

Q: My wheel oscillates around center or standstill.
A: Consider decreasing Dead Zone Removal Range value and decreasing Tire Force or force in Profiler.

Q: I don’t see values from tweaker files in the car FFB UI.
A: That is expected. Tweaker files override UI car FFB settings.

Q: Too much/too little bumps/kerbs rattle.
A: Adjust SpindleFzScale and SoPDifferentialf. But keep them equal.

Q: I want more of braking vibration.
A: Experiment with SpindleFxScale value.

Q: What FFB parameters mean?
A: See…l=1#post958100

Q: How to increase feeling of an understeer?
A: See…l=1#post958075

Project Cars Force Feedback inställningar

Master scale: don’t up it too much, 26 is fine in most cases.
FFB when acc/braking
How heavy your wheel feels when cornering
How much FFB over bumps and kerbs
How much FFB when losing traction

Once you start playing around with those sliders, it has a great effect on all of the cars, and compensates for any ‘lack off’ or ‘to much’ effects on your particular wheel.

Do take notice that in the main FFB settings of the game (options/controls/FFB calibration menu), you have to put the ‘deadzone removal range’ to 0.15 on most wheels first. This will enhance the overall FFB. All my other main ingame FFB settings (in the wheel/FFB calibration menu), are default.

On wheel settings for my CSR menu are FFB 100 and everything else OFF if available or 000. Rotation is 900 degrees and damper is set at 100 in the Fanatec profiler.

I use a CSR, so your wheel might be a bit different, but now that you understand the parameters i mentioned above, you can compensate for that ;)

First example:

Renault Megane RS:

A lot of people have been complaining about this car, and rightfully so as it feels like a truck in corners. This was due to the Fy scale being at 100 which made the steering way too heavy and caused FFB clipping (FFB went over the top and went numb because of it).

Take the car standard to the track and drive one lap, so you can take in how it felt on default. Then go to the pits and save these FFB settings (don’t forget to press save):

Master scale: 26
Fx: 100
Fy: 60
Fz: 150
Mz: 130

Now the Megane should feel like a modern day front-wheel drive car with power steering.
Let me know how it works out for you :)

1971 Mercedes-Benz 300SEL 6.8 AMG:

Master scale: 26
Fx: 110
Fy: 114
Fz: 130
Mz: 130

Formula Rookie:

Master scale: 26
Fx: 100
Fy: 130
Fz: 170
Mz: 120